Have you ever wondered, how deep the skin care products reach after apply them?
In search of an ever newer product, the active substance, we forget that, in fact, a small amount is able to get into the dermis. Even if research in vitro show us this ingredients as active, this does not mean that when we apply it to our skin they will do it.
The skin consists of 3 main layers
1. EPIDERMIS - this additionally consists of 4-5 layers (depends on the place on the body) and the one we see is the outermost layer called the stratum corneum. This part is already dead. Most of your cosmetics stop at this "dead part". And don't think now that if it's dead it's bad. It is a protective barrier, it helps your skin function properly.
2. ERMDERMIS (dermis) consists of elastin and collagen fibers, among others. 85-90% is collagen type I, 8-11% type III, 2-4% type V.
3. SKIN TISSUE
In fact, few cosmetics are able to reach the dermis, but they can do so, among others:
-vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid when it is at a low enough pH
-acids with very low ph
- some preservatives.
If you see changes after 1, 2 or 3 uses, the cosmetic has acted on the epidermis. Acids such as AHA or PHA or vitamin C do it perfectly.
Changes in the dermis, the production of new collagen we see at the earliest after half a year, often even after a year.
New technologies such as encapsulation, liposomes allow to overcome stratum corneum, but the component remains in the epidermis
More recent research after 2015 suggest that cells from the epidermis can communicate with cells from the dermis and this can lead to the production of new collagen by fibroblasts (via the received signal). However, not too many substances can do it. Such ingredients potentially include hyaluronic acid with smaller molecules, peptides, and growth factors.